new @ rainbow lodge

rainbow lodge
2011 ella blvd @ e. tc jester

what's new at rainbow lodge? a WHOLE LOT. chef randy rucker of former laidback manor and tenacity supper club has taken over the kitchen and the food has gotten a lot more... well, "rucker-esque." i wasn't really sure what to expect from lunch today - i have to admit that i wasn't the biggest rainbow lodge fan previously. but we were in good hands, randy's hands. as soon as the amuse arrived, a big smile creeped across my face.

amuse bouche from Rainbow Lodge

the amuse was a small bite of poached shrimp with cocktail sauce gelée and tangerine leaves. the presentation was clean and whimsical.

marinated raw scallops from Rainbow Lodge

our first course were sliced raw scallops marinated in miso, white soy, and sesame oil. it was served w/ a creamy miso vinaigrette, thai chilis, fresh dill and shaved radish. the inherent creaminess of raw scallops was accenuated by the crisp radish chips. the marinade was flavorful and benefited from the nuttiness of the sesame oil. the miso vinaigrette should be sold by the gallon. i would buy some, take it home and dip everything in it. the dill and chilis added a fresh, vibrant touch.

foie gras torchon on brioche w/ candied bacon from Rainbow Lodge

we were lucky to lunch on this particular day as the kitchen had foie gras torchon already prepared for the new years eve tasting menu. the foie gras from labelle farm had been cured in armagnac and sous vided. it was served on a piece of smoked brioche with candied bacon and blis maple syrup. tat soi flowers, rutabaga tops, and fleur de sel crowned the torchon. bacon and foie on one plate makes happy palates. and it did indeed.

rabbit & apple cider velouté from Rainbow Lodge

a bowl with a rabbit rillette and romanesco, a broccoli/cauliflower hybrid was set in front of me. then a rabbit and apple cider velouté was poured into the bowl. this was one of my favorite courses as it was so unexpected. a velouté is one of the four mother sauces of french cuisine. the sauce is essentially made from a stock (in this case a rabbit stock) and a blonde roux made from equal parts butter and flour. the sauce is so silky the word comes from the french word for velvet, velour. randy cuts the sauce with acidity from apple cider vinegar and the end product is magnificent: slightly sweet, rich, and creamy. the rabbit rillette was equally velvety and offered something more substantial to each spoonful. the romanesco was visually stunning and just barely steamed to add yet another textural experience into play.

berkshire pork belly w/cauliflower mushrooms from Rainbow Lodge

our fourth course was berkshire pork belly sousvided for 48 hours and then flash fried prior to serving. it was accompanied by cauliflower mushrooms (sparassis), leeks, and blackeyed peas in an orange blossom vinegar. nasturtium greens from randy's garden topped the plate and have a distinct peppery flavor. the blackeyed peas seemed to add some starchy creaminess to the plate and was a welcome reminder of the new year.

grilled tuna and fingerling potatoes from Rainbow Lodge

the fifth course was seared tuna with fingerling potatoes in a red wine bordelaise with sprinklings of fleur de sel and tangerine leaves - both very noticeable. the tuna was cooked perfectly. the fresh citrus notes from the tangerine leaves made this otherwise good dish something very special.

venison loin rubbed with cinnamon and "christmas spices" from Rainbow Lodge

our sixth and last savory course was venison loin seasoned with cinnamon and christmas spices. it was served with black kale, sunburst squash, and purple carrots in venison jus. the venison was not gamey at all but i would have preferred it cooked to a prettier rare. i also didn't really "get" the choice of seasonings although i appreciated the humor in incorporating some x'mas spirit on the table.

liquid pumpkin pie from Rainbow Lodge

liquid pumpkin pie was served warm in brandy snifters. it was rich in flavor but not in cream and we remarked how good it would be with the addition of rum for a great holiday drink. i love pumpkin pie and i loved this.

chocolate ganache from Rainbow Lodge

our last course was chocolate ganache with pistachios and wood sorrel. it was decadent and smooth on the tongue and a satisfying end to a long luxurious lunch.

i admit that i had some doubts about the relationship between randy and the owners at rainbow lodge: i was skeptical the business would not give randy the creative freedom to offer the kind of food he is blessed to be able to create. i'm happy to report that my concerns are no longer. randy will be rolling out a his new menu on january 6th.

and...if you don't have plans for dinner tomorrow night, it may not be too late to book a reservation at rainbow lodge and take advantage of their new years eve tasting menu. for details, go to randy's blog.

cafe pita +

cafe pita +
10890 westheimer rd nr wilcrest

as vast and diverse as houston is, it only has one bosnian restaurant. and as far as i'm concerned that's perfectly okay because the bosnian cuisine is served at cafe pita + is really *that* good enough.

bosnian food is an amalgamation of many regional influences. it is similar to greek and other mediterranean cuisines with their use of pita, feta, and phyllo dough. cafe pita + also serves a meza plate, eggplant dip, hummus, and gyro sandwich. other dishes seem more balkan or eastern european influences such as stuffed cabbage rolls. shish-kebabs and cevapi (similiar to kofta) are more popularly associated with turkish cuisine. much like the cuisines of these regions, bosnian food can be relatively light and healthy with no shortage of flavors.

we started with fried cheese and fried anchovy apps.

fried cheese from Cafe Pita +

fried cheese was lightly battered and fried, dense and a tad on the salty side. cafe pita + uses a store-bought ackawi, an arabic style semi-soft cow's milk cheese. it was good enough, but i'd gladly give it up next time to try something different. ajvar, a relish made primarily from red bell peppers, accompanied the fried triangles. ajvar also contains eggplant, garlic and chili pepper and can vary between degrees of sweet and spicy depending on how much heat the red bells and chili peppers have. cafe pita +'s hits more of the sweeter notes.

girice (fried anchovies) from Cafe Pita +

these little fried anchovy fishlings were addictive. a squeeze of lemon over the top and i was popping them into my mouth like popcorn. yes, a tad fishy as expected, but not fishy offensive. the dipping sauce is simply avjar with the addition of tabasco sauce. i'd recommend this even to folks who don't like 'chovies. you might surprise yourself.

sarma (stuffed cabbage) from Cafe Pita +

sarma was boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with ground beef and rice. it was stewed in a tomato based sauce. the dish came to the table a bit cold. the dish was good but i prefer the romanian version of the dish called sarmale which uses ground pork, sausage, and sometimes even bacon. sarmale is also served with sour cream on the side, just an added bonus in my eyes.

burek (spinach) from Cafe Pita +

an order of spinach burek made from phyllo dough, spinach, and feta was huge. the burek was reheated but it was a shame that the pastry arrived soggy. however the flavors were there and i was told that i should ask for it crispy the next time and they will heat it longer. burek can also be ordered with other fillings such as potato, beef, or just cheese.

cevap on lepinja bread from Cafe Pita +

the highlight of the meal were the ćevapi or ćevapčići (cici meaning small, sweet, nice in turkish) which is the national dish of serbia. cafe pita's ćevapi are made from ground beef and lamb, baking soda, mineral water, and bread and then formed into little breakfast sausage links. the baking soda gives the sausages a great, spongy texture. after grilling, the meat was still slightly pink inside and tender juicy. the flavor was more delicate than i imagined and truly enjoyable. the lepinja bread which i'd describe as a fluffier english muffin was served toasted.

cevapi w/ avjar and kaymak from Cafe Pita +

diced raw onions, ajvar, and kaymak escorted the sausage sandwich to the table. kaymak is a thick cheese spread similar to clotted cream made traditionally from water buffalo milk. the taste is mild yet buttery. i enjoyed the cevapi tremendously with raw onions and kaymak. this is one of those dishes that i feel sorry that vegetarians can't enjoy. this dish will also be one reason why i'll always be a meat-eater.

pirjan (lamb shank) from Cafe Pita +

pirjan or lamb shank was served with basmati rice and stewed vegetables including potatoes, zucchini, and eggplant. kaymak reappeared on this plate too which when enjoyed on lepinja makes this a hearty meal for one. unfortunately, five of us all tried get a taste of the tender lamb. it was a modest portion (for one) which left everyone wanting a little more. this dish at $9.99 a plate is a steal. it also ties with two other dishes (beef shish-kebab and meat lovers pizza) as the most expensive items on the menu. as heavy as lamb can be, i was impressed by how light the other flavors and spices were. the natural essence of the vegetables really shined.

postprandial turkish coffee presented in a copper mini pot and baklava followed. the turkish coffee wasn't as strong as i remember, but the baklava was tasty. less sticky sweet than typical greek baklava, cafe pita's is made from walnuts.

cafe pita + serves honest food at amazing prices. our dinner for 5 came out to $15 per person which included a generous tip. a bottle of wine was brought from home and another was purchased at the liquor store next door (where i spotted chilled bottles of moet white star for only $38.99). BYOB, as there is no corkage fee. the ambiance has a bit left to be desired but the friendly and warm service more than makes up for it.

it is authentic, family-owned restaurants like this that we must support to ensure they survive our tough economic times. if you need one more reason to stop by: the #1 food trend of 2008 is recession dining and i think cafe pita + is exactly what they're talking about.

que huong

que huong
8200 wilcrest dr # 27 @ beechnut

our lunch from Que Huong

the chowhounds and i had an impromptu lunch @ que huong yesterday, where robb walsh claims may be the best authentic vietnamese in the country. several attempts have been made to organize meals here but have fallen apart for one reason or another. my tum was crying for a light meal and i knew QH would hit the spot.

to start, 2 cold salads:

#300 jellyfish salad topped w/shrimp and pork from Que Huong

where's the jellyfish? i asked 2 or 3 times. i finally saw it hidden in the nether regions of the salad. once detected not much was found either. the salad was still wonderful w/sliced pork, shrimp, julienned celery, onion, carrots, cucumbers, crunchy fried shallots, and cilantro.

#306 sliced rare beef & shrimp water spinach salad from Que Huong

the beef (probably tai used for pho) was tender and pink, shrimp seemed fresh enough but the real standout was the bed of fresh water spinach (rau muống, ong choy, or in chinese, kongxincai "hollow heart vegetable") and the tasty dressing which was vinegar based, not overly sweet, and well-balanced.

both salads were light, fresh, and tasty. both were accompanied by shrimp chips - although slightly reminiscent of packaging peanuts -which were crunchy and fun to eat. they shared the same pleasant vinaigrette. i could eat either of these salads every day and have mentally added them to my list of healthy yummy food that i need to direct more attention to in following through with some new years resolutions.

next up, an appetizer:

#14 fried sticky rice combination from Que Huong

the fried sticky rice combination came with chinese sausage, vietnamese ham (chả lụa), tiny dried shrimp, and crushed peanuts. the dish was simple yet comforting and delicious. the fried puck of rice didn't appear to be deep fried as it did not have consistent browning. my guess is it is panfried, however i'm not sure how they do it. sticky rice is, well, sticky. i'm assuming copious amounts of oil must be involved yet the dish seemed grease-free. (if anyone can enlighten me on the preparation of this dish, please leave a comment.)

continuing on... i was disappointed they didn't have bánh bột chiên (fried rice flour cake) or bánh cuốn, steamed rice noodle rolls similar to chinese cheong fun served during dim sum. but bánh ướt is similar.

#99 banh uot w/ham, pickled pork sausage, fried shrimp cupcake from Que Huong

bánh ướt or steamed rice sheets are almost translucent white and have a bit of a gelatinous texture. while i quite enjoy it, i've known others to be turned off by the soft, chewy texture. by themselves they don't have much flavor and here QH cuts them into strips and pairs a small mound of cold bánh ướt with vietnamese ham or chả lụa (steamed pork loaf), pickled sour pork sausage or nem, and a fried shrimp cup cake. garnished with cilantro, julienned cukes, bean sprouts, and fried shallots, this dish is eaten after a generous amount of fish sauce or Nước chấm is added.

i loved the different textures of this dish: the soft, slimy noodles, the fresh crunch of the veggies and herbs, the pork prepared 2 ways, and the deep fried shrimp cake. even the juxtaposition of the 2 meats was interesting: nem- pickled, mushy, rawish-looking sausage (not sour to me at all) could turn others off, but i think it is quite tasty. and chả lụa- boiled/steamed silky smooth and mild pork bologna.

#274 soft shell crab tempura w/butter sauce from Que Huong

fried soft shell crab in "french" butter sauce. the crab looked quartered, then battered and fried. it was then tossed with butter sauce which i couldn't detect enough of and served on a bed of watercress. who can hate fried soft shells? i didn't with this version, although i have had much better at mai's. misha seems to think sinh sinh has the best in town and i look forward to confirming that.

#224 bo luc lac from Que Huong

lastly, i ordered bo luc lac or "shaken beef" which is a good benchmark dish with which to critique all vietnamese restaurants. misha remarked that i went safe and boring, the others at the table thought we probably already had enough food w/o this last dish, but our server promised me it was good. well... he was wrong. the beef cubes were overcooked and chewy. the flavors of the dish, even though i liked the addition of snow peas, were unremarkable.

i should have ordered something more adventurous like:

• #287 aromatic snail sauteed w/basil leaves
• #288 quail simmered in honey soy sauce
• #289, 291, 294 eel, frog legs, or alligator w/hot pepper & lemongrass
• #290, 292, 295 eel, frog legs, or alligator in curry sauce
• #296 grilled alligator on hot plate
• #321 goat meat, taro, and carrots in curry sauce w/ french bread or vermicelli

is this the best authentic vietnamese in houston? yes, so far, as far as i can tell.

a week of morning after burgers

i have to admit. this week of holiday parties has been quite strenuous on the ole liver. the morning after hangover that ensues from my inevitable mixing of scotch and champagne is killer but i find that "the burger" is usually an apt approach to tempt my stomach into being somewhat agreeable for at least a few hours. there's just something so warm and settling about greasy meat and cheese slapped between 2 pucks of hearty carbs.

part 1: hubcap grill, 1111 prairie street

my first burger junket was to hubcap grill next door to the alden hotel in downtown. hubcap IS the antithesis of the sleek, glamorous digs at the alden. hubcap is a burger shack reminiscent of some tiny, divey-ass joints i've stumbled into in brooklyn. as it always seems, all places like this have "character." hubcap has sort of a roadhouse feel with hubcaps lining the tight walls and seating is sparse. although i was interested in checking out the triple bypass that has a hot dog and meat patty, i settled on the bacon cheeseburger with grilled onions. i had another lunch meeting after this.

bacon cheeseburger from Hubcap Grill

it was SOOOO delicious. the bun was perfectly crusty from recent baking yet still soft enough to easily nosh into. the crisp bacon and sweet caramelized onions danced so well with the juicy beef patty, melted cheddar, and a healthy addition of iceberg, tomatoes, and the kick of raw onions. i really couldn't remember ever tasting a burger this wonderful. here's a photo of my burger halfway gone. note the burger drippings on the plate below.

last half of bacon cheeseburger from Hubcap Grill

hubcap is now open on saturdays. i'm sorry lankford, christian's but i'm now convinced there's a better burger in town.

part two: sparkle's hamburger spot, 1515 dowling street @ leeland

i've driven by this place in the east end a million times, but it was finally a friend's idea that brought us here. sparkle's hamburger spot is definitely more spotty than *sparkly.* there were a few of houston's civil servants lined up to order on this particular day. the kitchen is slow so expect a healthy wait. bring a friend or bring a book. we waited over 20 mins for our order.

From Sparkle's Hamburger Spot

our much awaited hickory cheeseburger ended up being overcooked and dry. the bun was grilled which we appreciated, but dry meat and zero drippage makes for a really boring sandwich. even worse, the escorting fries were pale, soggy, and cold. feeling like we had just waited for godot, ending up with cold fries seemed pretty unforgiveable.

hickory cheeseburger from Sparkle's Hamburger Spot

i also ordered chicken and waffles. i know this is a burger post, but i didn't want you to think the trip to sparkle's was a total bust. everyone enjoyed the chicken wings tremendously. they were still crispy hot, well-seasoned, and not over-salted like the fried chicken at frenchy's or breakfast klub tends to be. the waffle had soaked up all the butter by the time our attention was directed at it and ended up being soggy -- more pancakey than waffley.

chicken & waffles from Sparkle's Hamburger Spot

part 3: smashburger, 7811 main street @ kirby

i was invited for a smash orgy by the denver based company's local PR firm. the "fast, casual" restaurant wasn't even completed yet. there was still construction and employee training taking place. kinda made me feel special for being a part of something that was still being created and put together.

i tried the classic smashburger (their cheeseburger) during a yelp event just a few weeks back. i remember loving the crispy char on the thin "smashed" burger patties but also remembered an overuse of salt according to my palate. the smash fries were a hit at the event and were seasoned with EVOO, rosemary, and parmesan. the burgers were being cooked and served from a smashmobile - essentially a taco truck for burgers.

i ordered their three specialty burgers: (1) BBQ, bacon and cheese, (2) spicy baja, and (3) mushroom swiss. i jumped at the chance to add a fried egg to any burger and i choose the mushroom swiss burger as the vessel.

mushroom swiss burger w/fried egg from Smashburger

oh wow was this delicious. the fried egg was cooked over medium. the meat patty was juicy and flavorful even though it was cooked all the way through. it wasn't as smashed as my first but the patty was well seasoned and perfectly salted. the garlic sauteed mushrooms and swiss cheese was as good as expected. i'm pretty much a sucker for anything with eggs in it or on it and this was no exception. it was even served on an egg bun. would i travel from midtown all the way to the med center for this burger? yes.

the other 2 burgers were a bit too salty but cooked to a light pink center. i was impressed that the spicy baja burger was served on a chipotle bun with chipotle mayo and fresh sliced jalapenos. the guacamole was very fresh and it was very evident that much higher quality ingredients are used here than the average burger place.

spicy baja burger from Smashburger

smashburger will also be serving chicken sandwiches, salads, hebrew national dogs, and some other interesting sides like haystick onions (thinly sliced onion rings) and veggie frites (flash fried asparagus, green beans, and carrot sticks). the grand opening will be on dec 23.

crawfish in dec?

is it just me or does crawfish season seem to start earlier and earlier every year? i heard rumors last week that mardi gras grill already had crawfish. a quick phone call over there confirmed the rumor and i quickly organized a lunch there this week.

the chowhounds and i eagerly arrived at mardi gras with visions of mudbugs and getting down and dirty together only to find out that they ran out the day before. i had a hard time accepting the news and talking my belly into picking something off the regular menu. disheartened, i finally settled on the grilled boudin and a side salad. determined that the quest wasn't over yet, i called ragin cajun who confirmed they had boiled crawfish in.

a quick conversation about it led us to scarf down our lunch and head straight for ragin cajun. hey, there's a reason we're called the "chowhounds!" we started with 3 pounds.

the crawfish were of smallish size. of course i knew that this was something we should expect pre-season. we poured the crawfish out onto the red plastic trays set out for us, sprinkled a generous dose of "slap yo mama" on top, and dug in. i sucked my first head. something wasn't right. the smell of crab boil was too overwhelming. the taste? the taste wasn't really there. i realized right away that they were using concentrated liquid crab boil and probably not much of anything else like lemons, onions, garlic that would give it more dimensional flavors. we ordered another 3 pounds and switched to oysters and some pretty heavy drinking as happy hour just started.

year after year, people keep telling me they like ragin cajun the best for crawfish. every season i am talked into going at least once and each time i leave disappointed. it's official this time. if i'm walking into ragin cajun from now on, it's for 25 cent oyster happy hour and cheap drink specials. i'll try to patiently wait for mardi gras to get their next shipment of mudbugs in and i'll head to big woodrow's during prime time crawdad season. i can hang out with friends, throw back some beer, and pretend that i'm watching basketball. but really the yummy crawfish will keep me occupied enough. i also plan on checking out the crawfish spots in chinatown this year.

i heart soup

...i really really do. i'm a soup freak. i want it any day, any time of the year. but these chilly, 50 degree temps only heighten this penchant, no, obsession. i thought about warm soup all day long today. this weather makes for such perfect soup sipping which warms my heart and my belly.

i tend to enjoy clear broths more than the rich and creamy b/c i can indulge more freely. i look for anything as simple as a homemade chicken noodle to a hearty, spicy, cumin heavy chili to something ethnic and full of interesting herbs.

so the question today is: who has your favorite soups in town? i make some pretty good ones like my chicken and white bean chili, but i'm really not doing much cooking these days. i'd also like to fool myself into thinking i can start some sort of soup diet to lose weight and the key here will be to find lots of variety to keep me on track.

so here are some of mine:

1. duck noodle soup @ kim tai - braised duck, egg noodles, greens, fried shrimp chip on top, rich, grease-laden broth. smokey duck meat strangely reminiscent of the turkey legs i love at the ren fest. i won't fool myself into thinking i can eat this one as much as i want to.

duck noodle soup from Kim Tai

fried shrimp chip on top of soup from Kim Tai

2. nam kang woon sen (B4) @ asia market - clear noodle soup with tofu, ground pork, veggies. tofu is inevitably overcooked, but the pork is tender and the broth is very flavorful. pretty healthy methinks.

3. tom kha gai @ vieng thai - hot and spicy soup w/ coconut milk, chicken, straw mushrooms and flavored with lemongrass, galangal ginger, kaffir leaves. the soup is so exceptionally balanced between savory, spicy, creamy, and coconutty and seems lighter than most versions. sooo good. okay, no way is this low-cal either.

tom kha gai from Vieng Thai

4. canh chua tom @ mai's - vietnamese hot and sour shrimp soup w/ pineapple, okra, bean sprouts. fried garlic on top. tangy, hearty and delicious although a bit greasy.

5. pho @ thien an (or pho saigon) - thien an is my first choice but if it's after 6pm or a saturday thien an is closed and pho saigon is not a bad second. i usually get pho tai w/ meatballs. if i'm feeling a bit more adventurous i'll add tendon. i love the plate of fresh bean sprouts, cilantro, basil, and jalapeno and the star of anise and vietnamese cinnamon flavors of a good pho broth. i am convinced pho is healthy. even if you know better, please don't inform me otherwise.

pho tai from Thien An

6. sopa azteca @ la mexicana - chicken broth, chicken, cubes of avocado and panela cheese, chipotle peppers, tortilla strips. quite healthy. the panela cheese makes the dish (and the inevitable series of margaritas don't hurt either).

7. tortilla soup @ el rey taqueria - definitely a meal. tons of pulled chicken (probably leftover rotisserie chicken), avocados, veggies, cheese, tortilla strips. wins the award for best takeout since they have a drive-thru and you can literally go in your pajamas.

8. hot and sour soup @ doozo dumplings - wins the award for biggest pain in the ass to get to (only open weekday lunches, located in the park shops). if you can't find a meter, parking will cost you more than your whole meal, but boy is it good. veggie dumplings and hot and sour soup. i have to admit their soup is even better than my family's. i wish i could buy buckets of this stuff. don't tell but i steal hot chili oil from the wok and roll chinese place in the same courtyard which makes it even more hot = better.

9. chicken avgolemono @ niko nikos- chicken, rice, lemon juice, diced carrots and onions in chicken broth. another healthy choice. not THAT exciting, but good wholesome stuff.

10. caldo de pollo @ taqueria la tapatia - chicken still on the bone with skin in tact, clean and clear chicken broth, potatoes, carrots, corn and diced avocado, onions, cilantro, rice on the side. wins the award for good healthy choice at 2 am after a night of drinking.

caldo de pollo from La Tapatia

11. chicken congee @ tan tan - rice porridge with pulled chicken and fresh julienned ginger. comfort food at its healthiest. get someone to pick up some of this stuff for you the next time you are sick. the ginger does wonders.

12. soon tofu soup @ tofu village - it is impossible to resist that bubbling hot, fiery red, fluffy soft tofu soup. crack a raw egg into it and let it slowly poach. the problem here is that it's also impossible to resist the galbi and free banchan which quickly makes any visit here more of a gorge fest than a small humble and comforting meal. here's a photo of the soon tofu soup in LA which looks identical to tofu village's even down to the bowl.

soon tofu soup from Beverly Soon Tofu (LA)

13. mushroom cappuccino @ VOICE - crimini, portabello, shitake mushrooms, truffle oil, porcini powder, white wine, chicken stock and lots and lots of cream - 3 cups exactly, i have the recipe- PLUS a 1/2 cup of whipping cream for the topping. delish? yes.

14. crab bisque @ mardi gras grill - i think all bisques are pretty effing good. i mean, how can they not be with all the heavy cream that goes into it?? i think the crab bisque here is exceptional even if it's thick enough to be a sauce. the warm fluffy white rice on the side is a must for me to use to help balance out the fat.

15. soup buffet @ sweet tomatoes - soup buffet! AYCE soup! my fav here is the black bean soup which you can garnish with all the sour cream and green onions you want from the tater bar. turkey chili is good too and low-cal (or so they say) w/o the AYCE shredded cheddar option.

okay, now your turn to share. i'm hardly in love with any local gumbos or chowders and still haven't found the perfect pozole yet. what do you suggest?

october memories, november excitement

teas at textile

hello blog! oh i've missed you. i'm so sorry you feel so neglected lately. i've had so many fabulous meals and haven't shared any of them with you...

many of you know that i am actually getting paid to write these days. it's not much, but it's really fun. so although you aren't seeing much writing going on here, i'm actually more prolific than ever. i have actual deadlines authoring business profiles and reviews, editorial listings, event listings, and the weekly go list on houston citysearch.

i've also been crazy busy lately with chowhound events, grand opening parties, visiting new restaurants and bars, and super awesome opportunities that just keep falling into my lap. i have to say that the highlight of my october is a hard choice between the spectacular production of the house of blues grand opening party and the dinner at chez roux and overnight stay at la torretta del lago resort and spa. both events were first-rate, VIP all the way and the latter even included a massage and jet skiing on lake conroe the next day! the mccormick & schmick's pre-opening reception last night was a bit of a disappointment. most of the attendees looked like they just walked in off the street and my friend was charged for a diet coke at the bar. afterwards, i had a private tour of the foundation room led by the director and learned about the significance of the shrines and ornate eastern asian decor. the lounge and dining room are gorgeous and i am envious of anyone with a membership.

the chowhounds also had a whole pig roast at feast a few weeks ago. richard, james, and meagan certainly understand hospitality and i continue to be impressed by how smoothly all of our group dinners are executed. this last event was for 30 people! last week, i had a soup dumpling class at my house by chef sonny zou who has published many chinese cookbooks and has been recognized with tons of awards of his culinary talents. the event ended with full bellys, a lot of postprandial wine drinking and giggling with the chef, and talk of planning future classes with him. and did i mention that the houston chowhounds have a website now?

i will try to catch up and write more detailed blog entries of these events and my recent visit to textile, the new scott tycer restaurant in the heights. i was impressed with the space, the hospitality, the sheer amount of talent walking around in the kitchen, and the dessert tasting that plinio created for us. i also made my way over to saute world cuisine (next door to hobbit cafe and blue fish) to visit chef connie altieri, fellow chowhound. we had a delightful lunch and can't wait until they are in full operation and open late nights until 3 am on thu-sat.

BLT at Saute

this new month is bringing lots of excitement with the two flavor tripping parties. both events have been moved to the social on washington. the first event sold out weeks ago. the second one is filling up quickly. also, on sun, nov 16th, we will have a fundraiser dinner at himalaya to benefit the houston food bank. i totally forgot that i have tickets for the madonna concert for that evening. either i'll go to the concert late or i'll get rid of the tickets all together. THAT is how important the chowhounds are to me :)

for now, i'm off to the koonce "fun" raiser this afternoon. maybe i'll see you there?

Top Chefs @ The Beacon

This is seriously the do-not-miss foodie benefit of the year!

Houston's top chefs will be serving up their culinary creations to raise money for the Koonce family injured during Hurricane Ike in the Brennan's fire.

(copied from the brennan's website)

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 23rd 4:30 ~ 7:30

For a suggested donation of $100 per person (pay at the door) , you can enjoy tastes from Houston’s top chefs and wines from the best wineries.

Enjoy Tastes from:

Bagher: 360;
Jeff Boudreaux: Brasserie Max & Julie;
Brian Caswell: Reef;
James Cole: Fleming's;
Mark Cox: Mark’s;
Levi Goode: Goode Company Seafood;
Jeffrey Everts: Olivette @ Houstonian;
Mark Holley: Pesce;
Jonathan Jones: Beavers;
David Lunas: Shade;
Hugo Ortega: Hugo’s;
Wes Morton: 17 @ the Alden;
Ryan Pera: The Grove;
Monica Pope: Tafia;
Chris Shepherd: Catalan

Please come and show your support at a special benefit on Thursday, October 23, at The Beacon, located at 1212 Prairie Street, from 4:30-7:30.

Free Parking is available on-site at 515 San Jacinto Street.

The Beacon is a program of Cathedral Health & Outreach Ministries (CHOM). The mission of CHOM is to respect the human dignity of the poor and improve their lives. CHOM has generously opened the doors of The Beacon to Brennan’s to hold a fundraiser for the Koonce family. The proceeds of this event will go to the Koonce family and a small donation will be made to CHOM in support of its programs.

For more information: email: Kathryne@BrennansHouston.com

beaver's and an OITF glimpse

beaver's
2310 decatur st. near washington ave

the chowhounds and i made it over to beaver's for lunch a couple weeks ago to say hi to newly posted chef jonathan jones (aka "JJ"). after some positive reports, we were anxious to see for ourselves what kind of progress he was making with improvements to the food. luckily for us we picked a wonderful day to come in. JJ had a bunch of surprises in store for the table.

i had not planned on blogging about the experience b/c really, i just couldn't bring myself to write another lukewarm review about beaver's - a place i wanted to love so much but couldn't. besides, in all fairness JJ hadn't been there very long enough, the menu was still the same, and i knew the camera in my purse had nearly dead batteries anyway. but that was before i knew what was coming to our table.

corn puppies. a definite improvement over the first time i had them almost a year ago. more pronounced beer flavor. i still find the remoulade dipping sauce a strange combination. fried pickles. this is something i would never order on my own. delish! i went back for another half pickle. buffaloaf sandwich. moist, tangy sauce, lots of mushrooms which i love. the bread is still the same and slightly sweet. i can't say i ever liked the sweet bread. others at my table enjoyed the new and improved beaver burger, the gyro wrap, chicken tacos (huge!), and the pulled pork and chopped brisket sandwiches. we all nodded in approval. we liked the changes we were seeing.

my only disappointment was seeing the sad little iceberg lettuce side salad arrive at the table. it came with my buffaloaf sandwich. seriously, it's a waste of lettuce with no tomato or other vegetable to be found in the small bowl. the old vinaigrette was tasteless, the new one is too sweet. some good ole non-fancy ranch on it would have pleased me more.

then we were told JJ was sending out a few items for us. keep in mind we had just eaten a full lunch. first out, a brunch item he was working on. think 2 thick slices of texas toast topped with a thick bisque-like sauce (tomato cream based?) with small bits of shrimp and 2 fried eggs on top. YUMMMMM. anything involving cream and fried eggs is a guaranteed winner in my book.

then a huge basket of some of the most tender pork ribs i've ever had. OMG. and warm bbq sauce came on the side which i definitely appreciated. everyone loved the sauce and slathered it generously all over their ribs. it wasn't overly vinegary and it wasn't overly sweet. it had a great kick. the table was quiet. we were all knawing on our ribs which is a good sign. our group today was a loud one.

then we got a platter of items JJ was preparing for the outstanding in the field dinner being held the next day. we knew exactly what dinner he was talking about. it had sold out well before summer. there were huge grins on our faces and maybe even a bit of anticipatory drool.

head cheese made with pig trotters, spine, knuckles, and various other head and body parts. it was the most appetizing head cheese (or what i like to call meat jello) i've ever seen or eaten. also on the plate were crostini sticks fried in pig fat neatly stacked on top of each other.

and still warm pork cracklings! pork valhalla. my tastebuds sung. the pork fat crostini were over the top. so yeah, i busted out my camera. i could no longer resist the urge to document this outstanding and outrageous meal. thankfully i got in a few photos before my batteries died again.

JJ sat down with us and showed us a photo of the whole pig that he had on his cell phone. his inspiration for the head cheese was a couple fergus henderson recipes. he said that he used 95% of that pig. talk about nose-to-tail eating. see photos from the OITF dinner on alison cook and cleverley's blogs. this is something i hope to participate in next year.

boy are we glad JJ is working inside the loop again. if you haven't yet, it's definitely time to go back to beaver's and give it another go.

brazilian breakfast? not quite

brasil
2604 dunlavy st @ westheimer

with the plethora of wonderful restaurants in houston, why is there such a dearth of good breakfast joints? HUH? buffalo grille is so overrated. west gray cafe and bibas are best enjoyed after 2 am BEFORE i'm going to bed IMO. baby barnaby's? yawn. the breakfast klub is great but who can eat a greasy plate of food that really weighs you down for the rest of the day more than every once in awhile? okay enough bashing for now. what about really creative breakfast options beyond what you can easily whip up at home?

for this, one of my favorite breakfasts in houston is at cafe brasil and with their newly expanded kitchen comes a newly expanded menu. even more recently, the dining room expanded too by knocking out walls that previously housed a smaller kitchen and bathrooms. on a hot summer day, great! but seriously, with gorgeous weather like this, head straight back to the large garden courtyard that connects the cafe, domy books, and raye boutique, all very hip and lovely, and just-a-tad expensive. several large tables are available for big groups. soothing background music plays. it's a well designed space, minimal, and has a bohemian serenity about it.

for brunch on this particular occasion, i ordered the breakfast salad which is the tastiest AND healthiest breakfast dish i can think of. actually, i can't bring myself to order anything else but the breakfast salad - an off-menu special which they always seem to have when i'm there - ever since i discovered it.

who concocted this dish? it has the word "female" written all over it. i dunno, but it's both ballsy and genius!

the breakfast salad is composed of spring mix, sauteed egg whites and mushrooms, quinoa, and a cactus pear vinaigrette. it's warm and feels nice getting both protein and ruffage in the morning. the salad is also huge and makes a filling meal. btw, quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wah) is a complete protein source: 12-18% protein and contains a balanced set of essential amino acids for humans. it's also a good source of dietary fiber, phosphorus, magnesium, and iron. it's an extremely versatile food. i really don't have enough good stuff to say about it.

onto my friends' plates...

this is brasil's cilantro, poblano, and cheddar scone. it is buttery, cheese-y, and rich. just look at it! brasil knows scones.

breakfast quesadillas. i think i first saw breakfast quesadillas on farrago's menu, but they are better here. scrambled eggs, chunks of smokey bacon, and white cheese are layered between wheat tortillas. fresh guac, tomatoes and salsa verde for dipping.

migas are a perfect hangover cure. although i didn't taste them, they look fabulous.

a side of roasted potatoes. quite oversalted on this particular day.

as popular as this place is in montrose, it's very interesting how it doesn't have a website. there are daily breakfast specials on the chalk board when you walk in and stand in line to place your order.

cafe brasil. not brazilian at all really (named for the brazilian art gallery that previously reside there). you'll find plenty of taste, but unfortunately no wi-fi here. you'll also find surly baristas and long lines to order food, but plenty of good salads. i've realized that you can never go wrong ordering a salad here. even a breakfast salad.